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Are Smart Locks Safe? A Calm, Honest Answer

The short version: a good smart lock is about as physically secure as a good traditional deadbolt, and the extra risks are mostly account-security ones you can manage. Here is the longer, honest version, concern by concern.

By Stephen V.Updated How we choose
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"Are smart locks safe?" is really two questions wearing one coat. There is the physical question - can someone force, pick or bump the lock open - and the digital one - can someone hack the app, the account or the radio. The honest answer to both is reassuring but not blank: a good smart lock is about as physically secure as a good traditional deadbolt, and the added digital risks are mostly account-security ones that you, not a hacker, are in control of. Let us take the real concerns one at a time, calmly, without the scary headlines. (This is general guidance, not legal or professional security advice - if you have specific threats, talk to a locksmith or security pro.)

The physical lock: grades, not gadgets

Start where a burglar starts: the door. A smart lock is still a deadbolt, and the same standards that rate a dumb deadbolt rate a smart one. Look for an ANSI/BHMA grade (Grade 1 is the toughest residential rating, then Grade 2 and 3) and, on some models, a UL listing - the Kwikset Halo, for instance, publishes a Grade AAA / UL listing on its keypad, cycle and finish testing. A well-graded smart deadbolt resists forcing, drilling and wear just like a well-graded traditional one. The plain truth here: the electronics do not make the lock weaker, and a cheap traditional deadbolt is easier to defeat than a well-graded smart one. Physical security comes down to the bolt, the strike plate and the door frame - the same things it always did.

Encryption and the radio: harder than the headlines suggest

Could someone intercept the signal between your phone and the lock? Reputable smart locks encrypt their communication - Bluetooth and Wi-Fi traffic is protected, and credentials like Apple Home Key live in secure hardware on your phone rather than being broadcast in the open. Attacks on the radio do exist as research demonstrations, but they typically require specialised equipment, close physical proximity and a specific vulnerable model - a far cry from a casual thief. In practice, a burglar is overwhelmingly more likely to break a window or kick a weak door than to mount a cryptographic attack on your lock. That does not mean encryption is irrelevant; it means the radio is rarely the weakest link. The weakest link is almost always the account.

Account security: the risk you actually own

Here is the part that genuinely matters, because it is the part you control. The most realistic way a smart lock gets compromised digitally is not a Hollywood hack - it is a reused or weak password on your lock account, or a phishing email that hands over your login. So the defences are ordinary and effective: use a strong, unique password for the lock app, turn on two-factor authentication (2FA) if the brand offers it, and be wary of emails asking you to sign in. Treat the lock account like your bank account, because functionally it opens your front door. If you share access, use per-person codes or app invites you can revoke, rather than handing out your master login. Do these few things and you have closed the door that matters most. It is also worth understanding what your lock and app collect - our guide on what data smart home devices collect covers that side.

What happens in a power or Wi-Fi outage?

A common and fair worry: does the door fail open, or trap me inside, when the power or internet drops? For nearly all smart locks the answer is neither. They run on their own batteries, independent of household power, so a blackout changes nothing - the keypad, your phone and any key backup all keep working. When the internet is down, you lose the remote-only features (checking or unlocking the door from away, voice control), but local entry by code, key or Bluetooth continues, because those are checked on the lock itself. And when the batteries themselves finally die, you are warned well in advance, and most locks give you a physical key or a jump-power terminal to get in. We walk through each scenario in do smart locks work without power and do smart locks work without Wi-Fi- together they cover the "what if it dies" fear in full.

Can smart locks be hacked? Headlines vs practice

Yes, in the sense that any connected device can have vulnerabilities, and security researchers regularly find and disclose them. But read those headlines carefully: most describe a lab demonstration against a specific model, often already patched by a firmware update, requiring proximity or physical access most burglars will not attempt. The practical takeaways are boring and effective: buy from an established brandthat ships firmware updates, keep the lock's firmware and your phone updated, and secure the account as above. A reputable, up-to-date smart lock from a serious manufacturer is not a soft target. The sensational "smart locks are easily hacked" framing rarely survives contact with how burglaries actually happen.

The physical-key backup: keep it or drop it?

Many smart locks keep a traditional keyway as a backup; some keyless models drop it deliberately and rely on codes, phone entry and a battery jump instead. There is a genuine trade-off here, and neither choice is wrong. A keyed backup guarantees a way in when every electronic method fails at once, but a keyway is also the part a lock-picker targets and a spare key is a liability if it goes missing. A keyless lock removes that attack surface but asks you to trust the electronics and your battery discipline. Decide based on your own comfort - our guide on using a key with a smart lock lays out both paths, and our keypad vs fingerprint guide helps you pick the everyday entry method that sits on top.

The honest bottom line

A good smart lock is a safe choice for most homes. Physically, a well-graded model matches a good traditional deadbolt; digitally, the real risk is account security, and a strong unique password plus 2FA neutralises most of it. The outages people fear are handled by batteries and local entry, and the hacking headlines rarely reflect how break-ins actually happen. Buy a reputable model, grade it like any deadbolt, secure the account like your bank, keep the firmware current, and decide deliberately about a key backup. Do that and a smart lock adds convenience without subtracting safety. If you want models that meet this bar, start with our best smart locksroundup. This is general information, not legal advice. One honest caveat, the same on every page here: we do not run a lock lab - we compile each lock's grades and security details from its own Amazon and manufacturer listings, so confirm the exact model before you buy. Our full method is on the methodology page.

Smart lock security - the concern, the reality, and what to do
DeviceThe realityWhat to do
Physical break-inForce, pick, drillAs strong as a graded deadboltBuy an ANSI/BHMA-graded model; fix the strike plate and frame
Signal interceptionBluetooth/Wi-FiEncrypted; attacks need proximity and gearBuy a reputable brand; keep firmware updated
Account takeoverThe real riskWeak/reused passwords and phishing are the threatStrong unique password, turn on 2FA, use per-person access
Power / Wi-Fi outageFear of lockoutRuns on its own batteries; local entry keeps workingKnow your key or jump-power backup before you need it
Dead batteriesEventuallyYou are warned well ahead of timeSwap on the first warning; keep a key or 9V jump handy

Questions

Frequently asked

Are smart locks as secure as regular deadbolts?
Physically, a well-graded smart lock is about as secure as a well-graded traditional deadbolt - look for an ANSI/BHMA grade (Grade 1 is toughest) just as you would for a dumb lock. The electronics do not make the bolt weaker. The added consideration is digital account security, which you manage with a strong unique password and two-factor authentication. A cheap traditional deadbolt is easier to defeat than a well-graded smart one.
Can smart locks be hacked?
Any connected device can have vulnerabilities, and researchers do find them, but most reported hacks are lab demonstrations against a specific model, often already patched, that need close proximity or physical access a typical burglar will not attempt. The realistic risk is a weak or reused account password, not a signal attack. Buy a reputable brand, keep the firmware updated, use a strong unique password and turn on 2FA, and a smart lock is not a soft target.
What happens to my smart lock if the power or internet goes out?
Very little. Smart locks run on their own batteries, so a household power cut does not affect them, and when the internet is down you only lose remote features - local entry by code, key or Bluetooth still works. When the batteries themselves run low you are warned in advance, and most locks give you a physical key or a jump-power option. See do smart locks work without power for the full breakdown.
Should I get a smart lock with a physical key backup?
It is a personal trade-off. A keyed backup guarantees entry when every electronic method fails at once, but a keyway is also a pick target and a spare key can be lost. A keyless model removes that attack surface but relies on your batteries and codes. Our guide on using a key with a smart lock walks through both choices so you can decide with eyes open.

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Receipts

Sources

We do not run a test lab, and we do not pretend to. Compatibility and subscription-cost claims come from the manufacturer's own documentation and the live retailer listing, read on the dates shown. Read our full method.